My family and I just returned from an unforgettable 12-day road trip to Nova Scotia and Cape Breton Island. To say we loved it would be an understatement! We experienced so many unique and fun adventures, and I just had to share them all with you.
Getting There
We kicked off our journey by driving 5 hours from our home in Vermont to Bar Harbor, Maine. From there, we boarded the high-speed CAT ferry directly to Yarmouth, NS, with our car in tow. The ferry ride was an experience in itself—spotting whales, enjoying live music, and relaxing with a latte and gelato made it a perfect start to our adventure.
Day 1: Yarmouth Arrival
We arrived in Yarmouth around 8 PM and spent the night at the Tru by Hilton. I highly recommend it for its free breakfast (and coffee!), nice gym, and indoor pool with a waterslide.
Day 2-4: Exploring Mahone Bay & Peggy’s Cove
We drove up the coast and discovered the charming town of Mahone Bay. We had a delicious lunch at Oh My Cod and explored the town. Don’t miss The Barn Coffee and Social House for a post-lunch coffee or tea.
For the next three nights, we camped at King Neptune Campground, just five minutes from the iconic Peggy's Cove lighthouse. Our site overlooked the ocean, offering stunning sunset views. Across the street, we found a great Mediterranean takeout spot.
A sunrise visit to Peggy's Cove Lighthouse was one of the highlights of our trip. I highly recommend going early or late in the day to fully appreciate its breathtaking beauty.
We didn’t have time to visit Lunenberg this trip, but it’s on our list for next time.
Day 5: Halifax Adventures
We embarked on a private guided foraging adventure through the diverse and breathtaking landscapes of Nova Scotia, discovering and savoring the most precious wild edible foods, reconnecting deeply with nature along the way. After that experience we spent our day exploring the waterfront of downtown Halifax. We enjoyed a delicious Italian lunch at Bicycle Thief, indulged in ice cream at Cow's, and wandered through the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic.
The next morning, we started with lattes and the most amazing croissants at Two If By Sea in Dartmouth—a must-visit spot! Fueled up, we headed to Lawrencetown Beach just outside Halifax for a fun day of surfing. Board and wetsuit rentals are available right at the beach, and surf lessons are an option too.
Day 6-7: Cape Breton Island & The Cabot Trail
We journeyed to Cape Breton Island, with our first stop in Baddeck. We stayed one night at Silver Dart Lodge, where we took advantage of the laundry facilities while the girls swam in the outdoor pool. Our meal at Baddeck Lobster Suppers was fantastic, and we ended the night with a Ceilidh—a "kitchen party" featuring live Celtic music. The Cape Breton music scene was a highlight of our trip.
The next morning, we began our drive on the Cabot Trail, heading counterclockwise. Our first stop was at Salty Rose's and the Periwinkle Café in Ingonish for a fantastic lunch and a bit of shopping. We then tackled the 5-mile Franey Trail hike, rewarded with breathtaking views. A visit to Groovy Goat Farm for ice cream and some goat encounters rounded out the day.
We continued our drive to Hideaway Campground in Dingwall, where we enjoyed amazing views and an oyster bar. The campground also offers cabins and yurts for rent.
A whale watching tour was on our agenda, but we only spotted some adorable seals. Still, seeing Cape Breton’s stunning coastline from the water was worth it. We also loved the beach at Black Brook Cove in Ingonish.
Day 8: More of the Cabot Trail
We continued along the Cabot Trail, stopping at Beulach Falls and several breathtaking lookout points. Unfortunately, we didn’t get to hike the Skyline Trail as planned, but we did visit the Whaling Interpretive Centre, which was fascinating. There are plenty of other great hikes along the way down to Cheticamp.
We spent the night in the Acadian town of Cheticamp, where our favorite spot was the Marguerite Boutique and Café for coffee, ice cream, and shopping. Our airbnb was perfectly located near the beach.
Day 9: Tidal Bore Rafting in the Bay of Fundy
Leaving Cape Breton, we headed to our next big adventure—Tidal Bore Rafting in the Bay of Fundy. This was an absolute blast! Riding the tide and playing in the mud created lifetime memories.
That night, we stayed in a dome at Wild Haven Animal Sanctuary, where our kids loved feeding the goats and chickens.
Day 10: Back to Halifax
We made our way back to Halifax, staying downtown at the Hollis Halifax Doubletree by Hilton. But first, we stopped at Ontree, Canada’s largest ropes course, for ziplining and a ropes course adventure. It was another great spot to do laundry and swim in an indoor pool.
For dinner, we highly recommend Narrows Public House—don’t miss the sticky toffee pudding for dessert!
Day 11: White Point Resort
Continuing down the coast, we spent the day at White Point Resort , located right on the beach. For $50, we got a family day pass and enjoyed kayaking, the indoor pool, sauna, and changing areas. You can also stay there in a hotel room, cabin, or glamping dome.
Our last night was spent at the Starboard Inn in Barrington, perfectly positioned for an early morning ferry back to Bar Harbor.
Day 12: Heading Home
The ferry ride back to Bar Harbor was just as fun as the way there. We saw whales and dolphins, and had an amazing lunch at Peter Trout’s Tavern & Inn in Southwest Harbor.
This trip was packed with incredible experiences, and we can’t wait to go back. Next time, I’d love to visit Prince Edward Island or one of the nearby islands.
Enjoy!
Stephanie
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